Routeburn Birthdays Intermission, Day 3 – Kayaking on Milford Sound
It rained all night, big fat drops that we could hear on the roof. In the morning it was still pouring, and we had kayaking scheduled. I was apprehensive, but they say that Milford Sound is best seen in the rain because water pours off all the mountains, creating innumerable waterfalls where before there was a countable number of them.
Our guide showed up at the lodge already dressed in full kayaking regalia, his neoprene “skirt” dangling assymetrically in front of him. We got a short ride to the Sound, and were soon being issued thermal leggings, tops, heavy fleece, and rain gear. They’re experienced with bad weather here, getting three hundred rainy days a year.
Blair and I were quite comfortable as we set out in our double kayak to explore the sound. We were a bit sad that we had to stick near our group, but evidently they wouldn’t rent kayaks for a non-guided tour. We had fun even so, drifting near waterfalls and mistaking a seal for a dolphin. The low mist made the mountains look magical. As we got further out, the weather got rougher, until there were meter-and-a-half swells in the middle of the sound. Our guide made the decision to turn back, and we followed along the coastline where the water was a bit calmer. We still got the chance to “surf” the kayak down some big waves along the way.
Back at the docks, the weather had calmed down a bit, and Blair and I wanted to practice re-entering the kayak after a capsize. This is an essential safety skill if you go kayaking without a guide, and this was a handy time to try it, with land and dry clothes easily at hand. Our guide looked at us like we were a bit crazy, but hung around to make sure we didn’t die.
It was surprisingly easy to get out of the kayak underwater – once you pull your skirt free, the lifejacket bobs you to the surface. The hard part is balancing the kayak while you get back in. It’s easier in a double, because your partner can hang off the other side to balance out your weight. Still, you need to keep your body weight low along the kayak, and as the kayak takes in more water it becomes even tippier. Several times we were almost in, when we re-capsized.
Finally we made it into the kayak and onto shore. Surprisingly we weren’t too cold for all our repeated dunkings – the warm gear they had given us did a great job. We were pointed to a canvas tent where they had a “jet heater” set up – this was a propane heater a meter and a half long and twenty centimeters wide that blasted out hot air at an incredible rate. Looking down its bore really did feel like staring a jet engine in the tail.
Our bus from Milford back to Queenstown picked us up after lunch, and it was still raining like mad. The ride home was unbelievably beautiful though. As we wound up the road, each turn revealed a new rock face just streaming with water. It was a bit surreal at times, and doubly so when we entered the kilometers-long tunnel through the mountains, dimly lit and also pouring with water that seeped through the rocks.
Of course, on the other side of the tunnel it was clear and sunny. It took a few more hours to reach Queenstown, where we got some well-deserved rest.